Professional System



Professional Controlled-Angle Knife Sharpening System

Angle constancy is the most critical and the most elusive element of hand sharpening. The Lansky Controlled-Angle System is a guided knife sharpening system that ensures that your knife edge sharpens to the exact bevel you specify. Designed to give your blade a professional, razor sharp edge every time, regardless of your sharpening ability. Excellent for beginners and advanced users alike. The original and legendary Controlled-Angle System is the ultimate in Knife Sharpening technology. 

The Lansky Controlled-Angle Sharpening Systems allow the user to select the sharpening angles that are best suited for their knife's intended use. The four sharpening angles and their uses are listed below:

17° Angle - A severe angle recommended for razor blades, fillet knives or similar tools. An extremely sharp but delicate edge.

20° Angle - A commonly used angle for higher quality blades and provides an excellent edge for kitchen cutlery and slicing knives.

25° Angle - The recommended angle for most knives that need a durable, sharp edge. Ideal for hunting and outdoor knives.

30° Angle - An outstanding angle for knives that cut cardboard, rope or carpets. Best for heavy duty use.



The knife clamp included in the system holds the knife steady, and holds the angle guide static and firm, so that the user can achieve the desired angle with every stroke of the sharpener. The Coarse to Ultra-Fine hones provide an excellent range of grits for complete edge care and maintenance. The Serrated sharpening hone also allows sharpening of serrated knives with this system. The USA made Lansky system is perfect for outdoor sporting, kitchen or workshop knives, and offers the widest range of accessories available. In production for over 35 years, the Lansky Sharpening System has been the most preferred, and best sharpening system for DIY and cutlery enthusiasts worldwide. 

The Lansky Professional Controlled-Angle Sharpening System features:

  • Serrated Medium Hone: for sharpening serrations
  • Coarse Red Hone:  (120 grit) for edge reconditioning
  • Medium Green Hone:  (280 grit) for sharpening and less frequent touch-ups
  • Fine Blue Hone:  (600 grit) for most frequent touch-ups to keep your blade paper-slicing ÷sharp
  • Ultra-Fine Ceramic Yellow Hone:  (1000 grit) for polishing the edge for a razor sharp edge
  • Honing Oil:  Specially Formulated for sharpening
  • Easy to use, multi-angle clamp:  to hold the blade securely
  • Guide Rods:  One for every hone

All Lansky knife sharpener systems also include:

  • Extra long knife clamp screws for thicker blades
  • Storage/carrying case to hold all system components
  • Complete easy-to-follow multi-lingual instructions


Additional Kit Configurations

Often purchased with...



Feb 21st, 2014
I just received the Lansky Professional set as a Christmas gift. I just finished sharpening two knives, and all I can say is outstanding! The first knife was a 30 year old paring knife that hasn't had a proper edge in over ten years. When I was finished, it had to be the sharpest paring knife I have ever held. Before sharping it, you could literally saw it back and forth on your skin, that was how dull the blade had gotten. Knife number two was not really dull, but it came out the same. Scary sharp! This has to be the easiest, best working system I have ever used, hands down!
Feb 21st, 2014
This is an amazing sharpener. I'm only 15 and I sharper all my knives and the best results possible came out. I will never get different sharpener!
Tyson Moore
Feb 21st, 2014
First tried this system 20 years ago when a college friend received the 'Professional System' as a Christmas gift. After sharpening his pocket knife, I ran my thumb across the blade and couldn't believe when it when it had painlessly sliced a little ways into my thumb. Scary sharp indeed! Surgically sharp! I had him sharpen my camp knife immediately after I got a bandaid! I can't imagine owning anything else. Thanks Lansky!
Kirk Peel
Feb 21st, 2014
I have been using this professional system for over 10 years and I have not found another knief sharping system that does any where near as well. Keep stones clean,use oil, and check guide rodsfor trueness. Great System five stars.
John Herry
Feb 21st, 2014
I got my first Lansky system while I was in Saudi Arabia for Desert Storm. Sharpened everyone's knives and bayonets.

I finally need to replace that original Lansky system, and wouldn't consider trying anyone else!
Feb 21st, 2014
Recieved the profesional System some days ago. Worked with stones and anything else to sharpen my blades for ropework, fishing, outdoors for 20 years, never liked the "science" made around sharpening.
Always wanted a easy and good solution not for a stupid amount of money.
Found it ! Thats it. Some small things could be more detailed, but hey, for that price?
?o way! Also have the extra course one, cause sometimes gets rough. Recommend it, also for first definition of some blades (had a english one for rigging, real silly one, never worked with it. Now after, new definition, she obeys ;)
Chris Australia
Feb 21st, 2014
Had the older version which was in a blue box bought another one because I used it so much. Newer version in red box is soo cheaply made! Expecially the clamp it has no groove for the blade which picture on box and instructions show! Can't find the older stand for the clamp the newer ones are cheaply made will be getting ahold if company clamp is extremely dangerous to use doesn't hold knife like it should! Some designs you have to stick with the original was the best and made of way better material!!
Feb 21st, 2014
I bought the professional system and never realized that I would love sharpening knives so much. It's extremely easy to get a razor on your first blade at any angle you choose; although, I haven't used the 30 degree for anything yet. I've been sharpening all my friends knives, mostly kitchen and outdoor knives, done over a dozen blades so far. The guy, Jamie, is right; the clamp has no groove like the picture but I have no problem getting the blades to stay. I bought several added sharpeners (Extra Course Diamond, Sapphire, and leather strop). The Sapphire is not needed for razor edges because the 1000-Ultra Fine Stone works beautifully and the leather Strop polishes to make a beautiful mirror edge. The most useful addition was the Extra Course Diamond because you'll find that you need the more course (70 grit) to save you time grinding new edges on first-time blades. The diamond really does grind metal much quicker than the 120 course stone. I think the Extra Course Diamond is key because you'll need to grind a new angle on all the knives you sharpen.
Jun 23rd, 2014
I've used the Lansky system on my kitchen knives since 1989. I've used most of the different types of Lansky hones, and had success with all of them.
For the smaller blades, it's OK to choke up on the blade if there is no lip on your clamp. Just make sure the hone is not rubbing on the clamp and you'll be fine.
Maybe Lansky could make a metal hone that is an ultra-coarse file? Some knives have a hard time setting the bevel if it has been poorly sharpened, and wears out the extra-coarse alumina oxide hones after a while.
I have had the sharpest knives in the kitchen for 25 years, and people always ask me to sharpen theirs for them. The chef said it was like driving a new car when I sharpened his favorite knife for him. I'll never use anything else on my knives!
Jun 23rd, 2014

We're so glad to hear that you've had such great success with our kit for so long!

You're in luck we do make an Extra Coarse Diamond Hone that will sharpen hard blade steels much faster than the alumina-oxide stones. Check it out here:

-Lansky Sharpeners
Kaj Bjoerkman
Dec 3rd, 2015
The real benifit of this system is it's constant angle. It sharpness well, although alternative metods might render even more sharpness edges. But, come on, who needs it? A sharper knife gets duller faster. This kind of sharpness is probably exactly what you need.
One caveat is tha the text on each stone is a bit hard to read. A color vs coarsness would have been appreciated. And maybe the addition of a diamond stone for ceramic knives. Certainly more derireable than the ceratet stone.

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Sharpening Kit Instructional Video



How to sharpen a blade using your Lansky kit 

These instructions are designed to acquaint you with the sharpening process.

For kit assembly and clamp usage instructions, please consult the informational booklet included with each kit, or visit to download a new copy.


Getting Started:

    If blade is 7” or less in length:

  • Position the clamp in the middle of the blade.
  • After sharpening, flip the clamp (and blade) over and repeat the sharpening process on the unsharpened side.

    If blade is greater than 7” in length:

  • Pick the end of the blade where you would like to start sharpening and place the clamp two finger widths away from that end of the blade.  (For example, if you choose the tip, place the clamp 2 finger widths from away the tip.) 
  • When you have the blade secured in the clamp, place your 2 fingers along both sides of the knife clamp.  The area covered by your fingers (on both sides of the clamp) is your target sharpening zone.  Try not to sharpen outside this zone, as this will change the angle of the hone and result in a poorly sharpened blade.
  • Sharpen your target zone, and with the knife still secured in the clamp, flip the clamp (and knife) over and repeat this process on the other side of the blade. 
  • When you are finished with the first zone on both sides of the blade, measure another two-finger width starting at the edge of your freshly-sharpened area, and place the clamp next to your fingers. 
  • Sharpen this new target zone as you did the first, roughly using the same number of sharpening strokes. 
  • Your use of this method will minimize gaps and overlaps between your target zones, helping to ensure a continuous sharp edge when you are finished.

Hone selection:

  • Always progress through the hones in order of decreasing coarseness—that is, start with a coarser hone and work your way down to the finest.
  • The hone you begin with will vary depending on what type of sharpening you want to do.
    • For aggressive sharpening tasks, such as changing the angle of a blade or sharpening a very dull edge, begin with the coarsest hone in your kit (coarse or extra-coarse), and then progress through medium, fine, etc.
    • For lighter-duty sharpening jobs, like angle maintenance or general “touch-up” work, begin with the medium hone.

Sharpening Strokes:

  • For best results, your strokes should move diagonally forward (towards the guide hole in the clamp) and along a small section of the blade, using the full length of the hone with each stroke.
  • In the diagram at right, for instance, the first stroke would be from point A to point B.  The hone would then be lifted and placed at point C, where the second stroke would begin.  


  • Always sharpen into the blade!  (Do NOT sharpen along the length of the blade, or away from the blade, as these could damage both the blade and your hone).
  • It is important that you use approximately the same amount of strokes for each target sharpening zone, as this will help ensure a uniformly sharpened blade.

Oil Usage:

  • Arkansas hones: When using these, apply a few drops of the honing oil provided to the surface of the stone before sharpening. Keep Arkansas stones oiled as you work.
  • Standard hones (Alumina Oxide): Do not require oiling however you will note as you sharpen, that the stones will begin to move more smoothly. This indicates pores of the stones may be clogging with filings, which reduces the effectiveness of the stone. Clean by putting a few drops of oil on the hone. The oil will lift the metal shavings off the stone’s surface where they can be wiped away with a rag. 
  • Diamond hones: Do not apply oil to the Lansky Diamond hones: clean diamond hones instead with water and wipe shavings away with a rag. Diamond hones should be completely dry before next usage.


  • When using the coarse hone, apply a generous amount of pressure.  As you move to the medium and fine hones, use less pressure. 

Finishing Up:

  • If when you have finished, the edge is still not as sharp as you would like, continue polishing the blade with your fine hone. 
  • If you have a single-sided or serrated blade, drag your fine hone down the length of the non-sharpened side a few times to clean off any stray metallic burrs that may have accumulated during sharpening.

Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest!

CAUTION: Knife sharpening is an inherently dangerous activity. Used properly this sharpening system cannot hurt you but a carelessly handled blade or pointed object can.

Designed To Sharpen: