http://lansky.com/index.php?cID=We at Lansky Sharpeners are excited to finally be able to launch our new website. It’s something we’ve been working on for some time. Our goal is to create a richer experience for our users and hopefully provide an indispensible resource for answers on all things sharpening. After all, when you’ve been doing this as long as we have, you tend to learn a thing or two about knife and tool sharpening. Besides useful instructions, videos and the latest Lansky innovations, our new site will add a personal touch to the communications with friends like you through our interactive blog. It’s the perfect forum for you to ask, and us to answer frequently, and not so frequently asked questions. As it grows, expect it to be a one-stop resource for any sharpening or related questions you may have. We will continue to be adding content on a regular basis, so please subscribe to this blog so you can get all the Lansky Sharpener exclusives, straight from the horse’s mouth the second it’s published. Lansky Sharpeners May 22, 2013 13:05:11 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=448Cutlerylover Giveway First off, a big thank you to cutlerylover for posting the unboxing video and letting his fans know about our T.A.S.K. giveaway! Hopefully everyone got to see the video on our YouTube page outlining the parameters of our giveaway. Just to reiterate, w e are giving away one T.A.S.K. and six Blademedic to seven lucky cutlerylover fans. All we ask is that you like us on Facebook and then either comment on the Cutlerylover Giveway video on the Lansky YouTube page or you can comment right here on this blog post to be entered. Weandrsquo;ll be taking entries all the way up till midnight Thursday May 30th and drawing for the winners on Friday May 31st. Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest! -Billy May 21, 2013 13:05:11 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=447Dress Up Your Knives: Lanyards for Your EDC If youandrsquo;re like me, you carry a knife with you everywhere you go. How and where I carry my knife is important to me. I want to ensure that I can get to my EDC tools quickly and without hassle. Most EDC knives come with a pocket clip, but personally Iandrsquo;ve found that pocket clips end up destroying the pockets on my favorite pants and also broadcast to people that Iandrsquo;m carrying a knife. My preferred option for carrying my EDC is deep pocket carry and utilizing lanyards allows for quick access to my tools. Now, I know some people are absolutely bonkers about this paracord craft or andldquo;para-craftandrdquo; stuff and Iandrsquo;ll have to admit Iandrsquo;m limited to just a couple basic andldquo;craft knotsandrdquo; for lanyards. Fortunately, lanyard making is fairly easy and all youandrsquo;ll need a short list of supplies, they include: Knife or Scissors Ruler Paracord or Utility cord Lighter or matches Something that needs a lanyard Iandrsquo;m going to show 2 of the easiest and most common lanyards that people use today, the Noose Lanyard and the Square Lanyard. The first step to making either of these lanyards is to determine how long youandrsquo;d like your lanyard to be. For better access to my EDC I like my lanyards to either peak out the top of my front pocket or just below the seam. I start by measuring the length of the item; if itandrsquo;s a knife, I measure it folded. Then I take my ruler and put it in my pocket to see how deep my pockets are. Iandrsquo;ve found over the years most menandrsquo;s front pants pockets are between 5-8 inches, so I shoot for a lanyard that will make my overall lanyard and knife package around 7 inches long. Follow these simple instructions for a great lanyard! Noose Lanyard I like this lanyard style because itandrsquo;s adjustable and easy to take apart if you need cordage in an emergency. Take desired amount of cord and feed one end through the lanyard hole, pull until both ends meet. Determine the desired length of your lanyard and create a andldquo;biteandrdquo; (a loop) with one of the pieces of cord. Pinching all the string together, start wrapping your piece of cord around the three strands of cord (loose strand and the 2 that form the bite), working from the bottom towards the top of your bite. Once your lanyard is at a good length, feed your cord through the top of the bite. Pull the knot away from your knife to close the bite and finish the knot. Use cords at top and bottom of knot to adjust and tighten. Trim and burn ends. Square Lanyard The Square Lanyard, arguably the most popular type of lanyard, uses square knots (also called the cobra stitch) and is often used to make paracord bracelets. Cut your desired amount of cord. I generally estimate, 1 foot of cord for every 1 inch of lanyard, plus an extra foot.Bring the ends together to find the middle of the cord and make a bite. Determine the length of your lanyard and prepare to make a starting knot. Make a small bite with each of the loose cords, cross both your loose strands over the center stands and then feed the cord on both sides through the back of the opposite loops (actually the loops you started with). You should have a long bite (loop) as your base and loose cords. Start your series of knots. Take the cord on the left side and place it over the center strands. Now take the cord on the right side over the left side cord, behind the center strands, and thru the loop of the left side cord. Tighten up the cords so the half knot you just formed is next to the top of your lanyard. Now take the right side cord over the center strands. The left side cord goes over the right side cord, behind the center strands and through the loop of the right side cord. Tighten up the cords until they meet the resistance of the knot and now you have a completed knot. You will continue doing the alternating the left and right sides as you go. Trim and burn the loose ends. Hopefully this will help you dress up your knife a bit and give you more options for how youandrsquo;d like to carry your EDC. Lanyards arenandrsquo;t just for utilitarian purposes; a good knife lanyard should look great too. Take time tying your knots to make sure your lanyard looks neat; you can even add a couple of beads or a small carabineer to the end for decoration. Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest! -Billy May 14, 2013 13:05:11 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=446Iandrsquo;ve recently been talking to my friend Alex about a concept that he was introduced to by the popular gear/outdoors YouTube personality Nutnfancy. Itandrsquo;s called the Philosophy of Use. Philosophy of Use (POU) refers to how youandrsquo;re going to use a particular piece of gear, measuring its strengths and weaknesses, and looking at what capacity youandrsquo;re going to use it in. Itandrsquo;s a simple concept, but ever since Alex explained it to me I canandrsquo;t help but apply it to everything I use, from the change in my pocket to the knife on my hip. I think a lot of us already use the POU whenever we start qualifying a new piece of gear to purchase or added to our kit. You weigh the positives and negatives of a piece of gear, look at its features and see if they match your needs. Thatandrsquo;s just smart shopping! But actually having the name and the concept in your head whenever youandrsquo;re improving, supplementing or modifying your kit will help you keep the weight of your kit down and keep the unnecessary gear out. This POU concept is great even solely for its application to knives and sharpeners. Iandrsquo;ve said it before and Iandrsquo;ll say it again andldquo;The right tool for the right job!andrdquo; If Iandrsquo;m on a 5 day trek (putting miles under my feet, not base camping or bushcrafting) in the Adirondacks High Peeks region, Iandrsquo;m not going to bring a machete for my blade when a small belt knife will suffice. In the same way, a Blademedicandtrade; isnandrsquo;t the right tool if Iandrsquo;m carrying it to sharpen my axe when woodworking. Yes, the Blademedicandtrade; can sharpen an axe, but itandrsquo;s just not the best tool for the job. The POU of the Blademedicandtrade; is simple; itandrsquo;s a compact, portable multi-element sharpening device thatandrsquo;s great for small repairs and everyday maintenance. I encourage you to apply the Philosophy of Use to your current gear but especially when looking to add a knife or a sharpener to your gear. A hollow handled andldquo;survivalandrdquo; knife doesnandrsquo;t have the right POU to be used as an EDC knife for city dwellers. A small Swiss Army Knife doesnandrsquo;t have the right POU to be used as self-defense tactical knife. A karambit has no business in bushcraft. Hopefully this gave you some food for thought. Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest! -Billy May 07, 2013 13:05:11 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=445Over the years I have sharpened a lot of knives. Seriously, if you count the number of times Iandrsquo;ve helped friends with their field blades or sat down at a family membersandrsquo; butchers block and got to work, I bet weandrsquo;d be looking at numbers in the triple digits. I can boast that Iandrsquo;ve used just about every method and type of stone available for sharpening. Iandrsquo;ve even pulled smooth stones out of creek beds, just to see if it works (and it does!). Of course, this did not happen overnight. In fact, Iandrsquo;ve dedicated hours and hours of time and energy learning what to do and what not to do when knife sharpening. I often attribute freehand sharpening to learning the piano. Some people are just naturally talented and pick up it up in no time, and others have to put in a lot of time, work and dedication. The same is true if you want to be able to consistently produce a sharp edge with freehand sharpening. There are also the andldquo;player pianosandrdquo; of the sharpening world, such as the Controlled Angle Sharpening Systems and the Crock Stick Systems, where you need neither talent nor skill, you just set it up and it works. Much like learning an instrument, free hand sharpening has andldquo;doandrsquo;sandrdquo; and andldquo;donandrsquo;tsandrdquo;. Whenever I try to teach someone how to freehand sharpen I often notice that people make the same mistakes or have the same problems when first learning to sharpen. So, for everyone beginning to learn freehand sharpening, here are a couple of things you might be doing that are counterproductive. 5. Distractions Proper sharpening requires more than just your vision. For me personally, sharpening is more about sound and touch than anything else. Having distractions such as music, TV or other people can really mess up the rhythm of sharpening and which can make it difficult to create a usable edge. 4. Moving on to Finer Stones Too Early An Edge doesnandrsquo;t necessarily get andldquo;sharperandrdquo; by using a finer stone; it gets more polished and refined. Your edge should be sharp (enough to cut paper) after using your coarsest stone. Too many people move on to finer stones before their edge is actually sharp. The result is a subpar, often andldquo;marbledandrdquo; bevel. 3. Using too Few Strokes You can get a knife reasonably sharp by doing andldquo;one stroke on one side, then one stroke on the other side, repeat.andrdquo; But for a better more durable edge, the andldquo;burrandrdquo; on the edge has to trade from side to side. Use multiple strokes on one side, and then switch to the other side. (Repeat). 2. Not Understanding the Edge This is the basic andldquo;look before you leapandrdquo; scenario. To properly sharpen an edge you need to understand what type of edge youandrsquo;re sharpening and how a sharp edge is formed. I suggest looking over some of my earlier post such as Knife Edge Grinds and Uses and Anatomy of the Knife: Fixed Blade Knives. 1. Using Too Much Force The number one issue I see with people trying to learn how to sharpen is using too much force. Just the weight of your hands is enough, with the proper skill, to get a blade sharp. If youandrsquo;re putting too much muscle into sharpening and not receiving ideal results then I bet thatandrsquo;s your culprit. The keys to sharpening (like many other things) are practice, patience and knowledge. Keep experimenting and learning, but try to be aware of these five common sharpening mistakes and youandrsquo;ll see better results every time. If you have any questions make sure to comment on this post and Iandrsquo;ll answer as many as I can. Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest! -Billy April 30, 2013 13:05:11 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=444 Woodcarving or whittling is one of my personal favorite andldquo;down timeandrdquo; activities while outside enjoying nature. Using your natural surroundings to create something useful is ingrained in us as human beings and I personally feel a great amount of satisfaction and pride when I finish a carving project. One of the best things about woodcarving is that itandrsquo;s fairly cheap to start learning to carve, especially when youandrsquo;re in the woods and limited by what you can carry. A start up packable carving kit is easy to put together and I bet half the things you need are in your shop or junk drawer. Now, if youandrsquo;re looking to build large pieces such as a log cabin, canoe, etc., I suggest carrying some more robust tools like an adz, hand drill, and a drawknife. For a simple, packable carving kit, gather up these materials: Tools for your kit A small andlt;4andrdquo; blade knife (carving) A large andgt;4andrdquo; blade knife (chopping) Gouge or crook/spoon knife Sharpening supplies (may vary) A hand axe (optional) Small Saw or Bow Saw (optional) A pencil Material for making your kit Sewing kit/machine An old pair of jeans (a sizeable piece of leather, canvas or heavy nylon fabric will also work) The first thing that you want to do is create a tool roll for your small tools. I keep my larger knives and axes separate from my tool roll. A tool roll simply helps you stay organized and especially helps with not losing or forgetting a tool in the field. Each tool has its place! Take your pair of old jeans and cut a leg off. Then along one side of the seam cut the leg in half length wise. Open up the piece of fabric length wise, trim the center seem and trim it to your dimensions. Now, fold the bottom half of the fabric to the center seem line of the fabric.and place your tools on the folded fabric (my knives stay on my belt or pack personally) and estimate the width of pockets that will hold each tool. Pin and sew each end of your tool roll (flip your fold inside out if you want to be fancy like me) Mark your pockets and secure each pocket with pins (Make sure your tools fit before sewing!) Start sewing! Attach a tie to the outside of your tool roll on one outside edge, so you can secure the roll when all rolled up. Now you should have a tool roll that should look like the one pictured above (mine has a little extra). Place tools in pockets, fold the top over, roll it up, tie it and throw it in your pack with your other gear. This should be all you need to start carving. I personally like to carve bowls, spoons, trinkets and some cooking/camp tools. If youandrsquo;re worried about the water proofing your tool roll, I suggest using waxed cotton or waxing your own cotton by melting down a ratio of 9 to 1 of paraffin wax and beeswax, letting it cool overnight, then work/rub the solid wax into the outer surface of your tool roll and then use heat to melt the wax right into the fabric (I use a hairdryer, but Iandrsquo;ve heard of people using old clothing irons). Repeat a few more time until youandrsquo;re satisfied. Not completely water proof, but pretty darn water resistant. Enjoy : ) Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest! -Billy April 23, 2013 13:05:11 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=443A knife is a great tool can last you a lifetime, but only if you take care of it! Regular maintenance on your favorite knives is important, not only for visual appeal but also for top rate functionality. Whether your blades are fixed, folders, gravity or anything in between, weekly maintenance will extend the life of your knives, make them easy to use and increase their visual appeal. Maintaining a knife is fairly simple. I use basic household items and tools to maintain my knives and I section out some time every week or two to go over my knives, axes and machetes and make sure they are well oiled and not showing any signs of corrosion. Now, to start cleaning and maintaining your knives at home youandrsquo;ll need a short list of supplies, including: Oil ( I prefer mineral oil such as Nathanandrsquo;s Honing Oil which is food safe but good old gun oil will work too) Cotton Swabs Clean Dry Rag(s) Linseed Oil ( for wood handled knives) Fine sandpaper Beeswax (for wood handled knives) Metal Glow (metal polish) Gun Solvent Fixed Blade Knives are obviously the easiest to maintain. Follow these simple steps: Dab a little solvent on a rag and clean the blade and metal hardware (only) with the solvent and wipe off completely. Use Metal Glow to polish the blade and hardware, if desired. Wipe down the blade with a clean rag when finished. (Wood handles only) Use fine sandpaper to very lightly sand the surface of the handle. (Wood handles only) Dab some linseed oil on a rag, apply oil to the handle, wipe away any excess oil and allow the handle to dry. (Wood handles only) Rub beeswax into the handle and work it in with your hands. Wipe the blade down with a clean rag again and apply a liberal amount of Nathanandrsquo;s Honing Oil to the blade. Wipe the blade clean with a clean rag and oil the blade and hardware again. Let the oil sit on the blade for a minute or two and then gently wipe away the excess oil. You may now store or sheath your knife but remember never store a blade in its sheath for long periods of time. Folding Knives are a bit more involved to maintain but here is how I clean and maintain my folders regardless of their locking mechanism. Dab a clean cotton swab in solvent and clean the blade, as well as, inside the liner, moving hardware, etc. With a couple of clean cotton swabs carefully clean away all the solvent. For good measure clean some more. Polish the blade with Metal Glow, if so desired, and clean thoroughly. Dab a clean cotton swab in Nathanandrsquo;s Honing Oil and clean the blade, as well inside the liner, moving hardware, etc. Move the action of the knife around to let the oil penetrate the mechanisms. Clean the knife thoroughly with clean cotton swabs/rags. Repeat step 4 and let the knife sit with oil for a minute or two. Repeat step 5. Your knives should be clean and ready to use! If you consistently maintain and clean your knives youandrsquo;ll be using your favorite blades for years to come. Make sure not to store knives in their sheaths and remember that even stainless steel will corrode given enough time and the right environment. I want to mention that this method works great for regular maintenance, but if your blades are heavily corroded or unusable, youandrsquo;ll have to be patient and spend more time cleaning, especially on folding knives. Be Safe, Be Smart and Stay an Edge Above the Rest! -Billy April 16, 2013 13:05:11 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=442 Med Kit Basics In my last post, Basic Knife Safety, I wanted to make sure that you knew how to use a knife properly while avoiding any type of bodily injury. With that being said, even the most seasoned outdoorsman can make a mistake and can end up cutting themselves. For example, my buddy and I were doing some hiking this weekend and he asked for me to show him how to make a simple snare and trigger. While setting up the snare and pulling the trigger taut, I switched my knife to my other hand and cut the outside of my finger. Now, Iandrsquo;ve learned the hard way that whenever you are in the field and get injured, you drop whatever you are doing and inspect then clean/treat your injury. Immediate response is important for a couple of reasons: You may be more injured/cut than you initially thought. (You donandrsquo;t necessarily feel a very sharp blade when you are cut) Infection is a very real problem when youandrsquo;re in the field, whether your 10 feet or 10 miles from the nearest road/civilization. Blood is slippery. No need to hurt yourself further because of an unsure grip. Treating a wound in the field is a very different experience than it is at home. Even the smallest injury in the field can be life threatening. You have to make sure that you are carrying first aid basics whenever you are carrying a blade. I suggest keeping/adding the following in your Med Kit for wound care. Regular adhesive bandages Small roll of gauze or 10-20 4andrdquo;x4andrdquo; gauze pads New Skin Liquid bandages Butterfly closures Vetwrapandtrade;- used by veterinarians to wrap animalandrsquo;s wounds but is great for field wound/burn care (Sports tape or electrical tape is okay too) Isopropyl alcohol Antibiotic ointment Quikclotandtrade;- this stops moderate to severe bleeding until further medical help is available General purpose soap Treating a small wound should be a pretty basic skill most people know how to do. Regardless, Iandrsquo;m going to re-emphasize the method. Apply pressure to the wound to stop/slow bleeding Clean wound and surrounding area with clean, warm and soapy water Disinfect wound with alcohol Dress wound (with ointment) Keep wound clean and dry till further medical attention can be given (may include changing bandages regularly) Letandrsquo;s be honest, you know when all you need is a band-aid and if thatandrsquo;s the case then thatandrsquo;s what you use. I like liquid bandages for treating the real small cuts. I tend to cover any bandages I apply with some Vetratandtrade; or electrical tape to keep them clean and in place. Now, deeper wounds on your hands will mean that serious care needs to be taken. If you cut yourself in the field, your first step is to inspect the wound and determine the correct course of action. If a wound is deep, you will see fatty tissue and it will bleed profusely. I highly suggest using Quickclotandtrade; to stop the bleeding and use Vetrapandtrade; to secure your Quickclotandtrade; over the wound. Then get yourself medical attention ASAP. If the wound is deep but not life/function threatening, I would attempt to treat the wound in the field. This is when butterfly closures are your best friend,friend; you want to use these to close any wound that is gaping (not closing by itself). Follow these simple steps: Apply pressure to the wound to stop/slow bleeding. Clean surrounding area with clean, warm and soapy water. Irrigate youandrsquo;re wound with clean (ideally, boiled) water with a small amount of alcohol mixed in it. Let it dry completely, while still holding pressure on the wound. Use Butterfly closures to close your wound and then use liquid bandages to help hold the butterfly closures in place. DO NOT PUT LIQUID BANDAGES DIRECTLY ON A WOUND THIS SIZE. Use a light covering of antibiotic ointment around and on top of the wound. NOT IN THE WOUND! Cover wound in gauze wrap/pad and secure with Vetrapandtrade; to help keep wound clean and dry. Cuts on your hand can be tricky. Because we move and manipulate our hands so much often wounds reopen and take much longer to heal. By keeping a couple of these extra items in your Med Kit you can ensure that youandrsquo;re giving yourself a good chance at keeping your wounds closed and clean before you seek further medical attention. Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest. April 09, 2013 13:05:11 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=441 Using a knife is inherently dangerous. No matter what your experience or what type of knife your using, one simple fact remains: knives were meant to cut. I see adults handle knives casually and carelessly way too often. Even seasoned outdoorsmen can cut themselves if they start becoming lax with their blades. Basic blade safety is important; not only are you protecting yourself and others but youandrsquo;re minimizing the chance of ruining your experience with knives. Now, I imagine a lot of knife safety tips are redundant but theyandrsquo;re still important. Basic knife safety boils down to awareness and some minor techniques. Cut away from yourself (in most cases). Crook knives and draw knives are often used with cuts angling towards your body. The lesson that needs to be taken away from this age-old rule is to be mindful of where your blade is moving and where the edge will end up if you slip. Keep your body out of the cutting line. Any body part in line with your cut has the potential of being injured. Always hand a blade handle first and edge facing up when passing a knife to someone. Never try to catch a falling knife! Let it drop and then pick it up. If a knife is not currently in use, it should be sheathed or folded. A fixed blade should not be stored in its sheath for long periods of time (1 month+) because this can cause corrosion. A dull knife is far more dangerous than a sharp knife. Dull knives wonandrsquo;t bite into material and are liable to slip when cutting. Also, dull knives need extra force to be used. Using extra force increases your odds of slipping and hurting yourself/others. A knife is a cutting tool. Do not use a knife for prying. (Unless the knife is modified for other purposes). Sharpen your knives regularly, but do not use power grinders to sharpen. Power grinders can ruin the edge and the temper. There is also a possibility that the grinder will grab and throw the knife out of your hands. Keep your knife clean and oiled. Especially folding blades. Corrosion can cause steel to weaken and can affect the knifeandrsquo;s cutting ability. When using a knife make sure there is proper lighting. A lot of these safety tips seem obvious but just keeping a andldquo;safety firstandrdquo; mentality is important when handling knives. Those of us that are passionate about our blades often play with them or use them so often we become casual with handling knives. Remember, just because you know basic knife safety does not mean the people around you do. Make sure to set the example and educate people with proper techniques. It all boils down to the basics: Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest. -Billy April 02, 2013 13:05:11 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=440With the release of the Lansky T.A.S.K. I thought that I would share some of my reasons for keeping a couple of well stocked Bug Out Bags in my house and car. Even though the T.A.S.K. has Apocalypse right in the title, we wanted to make a bag that fulfills multiple purposes and can actually help you in a variety of emergency situations. Itandrsquo;s been my experience that most people are fairly optimistic when it comes to emergency situations. There is a big belief that andldquo;This can/wonandrsquo;t happen to meandrdquo; or andldquo;Donandrsquo;t worry, thatandrsquo;s why we have emergency response programs!andrdquo; but the fact of the matter is that only you are responsible for your personal safety. Period. There are plenty of recent examples of why an emergency preparedness kit is a good idea to carry in your vehicle or have at home: Hurricane Katrina, Super Storm Sandy, Fukushima Daiichi Disaster and even run of the mill snowstorms, floods and tornadoes. Being prepared with basic tools and knowledge can mean a world of difference in a survival or emergency situation. Just take a look at the website http://www.disaster-report.com/ if you have any doubts about the prevalence of natural disasters in this day and age. Iandrsquo;m not even going to touch on current worldwide political unrest and social upheaval but if you stay up to date on current events (even if you filter your media sources) you can understand why a little caution and preparedness is a good plan. At Lansky, we do recognize that an andldquo;Apocalypseandrdquo; is highly unlikely but the old adage; andldquo;Prepare for the worst and hope for bestandrdquo; definitely has some value when thinking about putting together a bug out bag. The T.A.S.K. is a great place to start when starting to prepare, but itandrsquo;s not a complete means of prolonged survival. It is clearly indicated in the T.A.S.K. survival guide that the kit should be supplemented with personal supplies and is not a magical means of survival. The best survival tool that a person can carry on them is a clear head and a steady set of nerves. Apart from that I personally have a couple of tiered systems. My first tier for survival is my Everyday Carry, also called my EDC. I have a two-part EDC. The bag that I carry with me is just a simple thirty-five liter backpack and mostly just carries my day-to-day things. I carry the following in my pocket: Pocket Knife (on rotation, depends on how Iandrsquo;m feeling) Cell Phone (not shown) Flashlight (Fenix E11) Pen Handkerchief Mini Bic Lighter I carry the following in my bag: Work Stuff (Documents, Magazines, etc.) Planner Personal journal (not shown) A book/ Kindle (usually) ESEE Isula Surefire ProTac (2 extra batteries as well) Mini Med Kit (bandages, alcohol pads, pain killer, nylon gloves, hook needle, fishing line, safety pins, 10andrdquo;x10andrdquo; tin foil folded up, butterfly closers, razor blade, tweezers, magnifying glass, etc.) 35andrdquo; of nylon cord Blademedicandtrade; 30andrdquo; Duct tape Compact Mylar Blanket Lifestrawandreg; Extra Deodorant Tide Pen In my car I plan on carrying a T.A.S.K, but currently I keep a boyandrsquo;s axe, an old 20 degree sleeping bag, old wool hunting jacket, old rain gear, gloves, a wool hat, some dehydrated food, denatured alcohol, alcohol stove, a steel canteen cup, a headlamp, an old Eureka tent and a full tool kit as well. Obviously, I think about my own personal survival a lot, but I believe itandrsquo;s something that everyone should spend time considering. Most of us live in a world perfectly constructed for us and made to be comfortable. If you stopped receiving some of the basics (access to pre-packaged food, electricity, clean water), how well do you think youandrsquo;d fair? Having a basic emergency plan, as well as an emergency kit, is your first line of defense against the unknown. You could ignore the possibility of danger, or you could make sure youandrsquo;re up to TASK. -Billy March 27, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=439Choose Your Sharpener Recently, Iandrsquo;ve been asked a lot about how to choose the right sharpener for specific blade steels. In my last post Types of Sharpeners, I introduced and described and explained the differences and benefits of the most popular sharpening abrasives available today. Choosing a sharpener is really going to boil down to personal choice, but I may be able to help point you in the right direction. First, you need to decide what type of sharpening technique or system would you like to choose. We can boil this down to 3 basic categories: Controlled Angle Clamping Systems Crock Stick Systems Free Hand Sharpening Controlled Angle Clamping System The Lansky Controlled Angle Sharpening System is the original andldquo;anybody can do itandrdquo; controlled angle (clamping) sharpening system. Invented by Arthur Lansky Levine in 1979, over the last 35 years, this system has been adapted by several companies but the original model remains unaltered. The system features a clamp to fix the knife steady, while having a guided hone to hold a consistent angle over the entire edge and both bevels. For people that would like to learn sharpening but have no experience, I always suggest starting with a Controlled Angle System. Sharpening for me is more about touch and sound than vision. Using the Controlled Angle System lets you get a feel for the motion, sound and feel of a stone set properly to an edge. For a andldquo;no-fussandrdquo; sharp edge every time, a Controlled Angle System is a must have. Crock Stick Systems The Crock Stick System is another andldquo;anybody can use itandrdquo; system. This system works by replicating the angle for horizontal bench stone sharpening, in an easy to use vertical fashion. The Crock Stick system generally uses 2-4 rods of different grits and material (generally ceramics). The rods are set vertically in the base at common sharpening angles. This allows the user to simply run his edge down the rods and sharpen a blade. The motion is similar to slicing bread. These systems are effective, compact and incredibly easy to use for people you donandrsquo;t have the skill to sharpen on a benchstone. Free Hand Sharpening Classic sharpening is done free hand. More commonly associated with benchstones, freehand sharpening can use a variety of different sharpeners, from pocket stone and benchstones to rods and steels. Freehand sharpening is accomplished by having a steady hand, some basic sharpening knowledge and lots of practice. This method is difficult though, because you must be able to keep a consistent angle while sharpening to achieve a proper edge. This involves building up muscle memory and experience with sharpening and blade care. I often like to compare it to learning an instrument; itandrsquo;s both a skill and an art. Practicing is what makes the difference. Choosing Your Abrasive After you choose what type of sharpening system/technique youandrsquo;d like to use, you have to select what type of abrasive/stone youandrsquo;d like to use. If you are curious about different abrasives/stones qualities I suggest reading my last post Types of Sharpeners. Generally I use multiple stones for sharpening any blade, but the stone I start with can be influenced by the type of steel. Harder steels, such as steels in the High Carbon Family of steels (1095, 01 W1) have a high wear resistance. That means a more aggressive abrasive such as Diamond or Carbide would be ideal for sharpening and profiling the edge on High Carbon steel blades. Now once the blade is sharp, progressive polishing can be done with ceramics or natural stones. Softer Stainless steels are less wear resistant and may need the softer touch of a Natural Arkansas Stone and different grit ceramic stones. Youandrsquo;ll find that the abrasive grit of a particular stone is more important than specific types of stone. I enjoy using diamond products because of the low maintenance involved and how portable they are without any fuss. That being said, I tend to use ceramics and natural stones on very soft stainless steels such as 440 or 8 Cr 13 Mov. Iandrsquo;ve said it before and Iandrsquo;ll say it again, choosing your sharpening stone is about personal preference but hopefully some of the information in this and my previous blog post can help you make an educated decision. Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest! -Billy March 19, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=438Types of Sharpeners Learning how to sharpen can be frustrating. There are endless varieties of sharpening abrasives/stones, sharpening techniques, and not to mention peopleandrsquo;s opinions. With so many choices to make itandrsquo;s no wonder most people have a bazillion questions when they start learning about sharpening. We have covered a lot of the ground work to make this blog a great resource for learning about sharpening and blade care. Each blog post has been slowly building on each other, so we have the resources to understand basic knife/blade terminology and qualities. Now itandrsquo;s time to get down to the thick of it! Letandrsquo;s explore the different sharpening abrasives (sharpeners) available today. All of the different sharpening abrasives have strength and weaknesses, but I canandrsquo;t say one type of abrasive is superior to another. Which abrasive you choose will ultimately come down to preference. Sharpening abrasives/stones can be broken down into 5 categories. Natural Stones Carbides Diamond Abrasives Ceramics Water Stones Natural Stones - Natural Arkansas Stones (Novaculite) are the most well known in this category. Novaculite stone are rare sedimentary stones composed of tiny microcrystalline quartz (which has a high silica content). Novaculite stones are only found in North Americaandrsquo;s Ouachita Mountains region and can be considered a recrystallized version of chert (flint). Arkansas Stones are used in conjunction with water or oil to move metal filings (swarf) away from the abrasive surface when sharpening. Due to their hardness, Arkansas stones are great for putting a razor sharp edge on an already sharp knife but not the best for profile work and fixing damaged edges. Also, Arkansas stones will last a long time, but can start andldquo;glazingandrdquo; on the surface and lose itsandrsquo; abrasive qualities after prolonged use. Natural Arkansas stones are becoming exceedingly rare and expensive. - Coticule and Belgian Blue Whetstones are traditional European natural whetstones. Coticule and Belgian Blue (BBW) are two different stones that are found and mined together. Generally, they are combined either through natural or manmade processes to form one, two-sided stone whetstone. Coticule is a harder material (fine grit) than BBW and has been used by sword grinders for centuries to polish blades. BBW is coarser than Coticule and is prized for edge maintenance and profiling. These stones are generally used in conjunction with water to form andldquo;slurryandrdquo; to help with polishing a blades edge. Natural Coticule and BBW are increasingly rare and expensive. Carbides Tungsten Carbide Sharpeners are usually found in pull through sharpening devices. Tungsten carbide, when formed to create a sharpening element, is a dense material that is harder than steel and removes material quickly. Carbide sharpeners are aggressive abrasives and are great for restoring a working edge on a blade quickly. Due to the abrasive qualities of carbides, they leave a very rough micro-serrated edge that will dull quickly. After setting the edge with a carbide sharpener, continue to hone the edge on finer stones to achieve a sharp polished edge. Diamond Abrasives Diamond is the hardest naturally occurring substance known to man, which makes it a fantastic material for sharpening. Diamond grit sharpeners are made by using a metal plate/rod and adhering diamond abrasive to the plate/rod. Often the plateandrsquo;s surface is not entirely covered with the diamond abrasive and has small holes in the surface. These holes are usually described as a way to catch the swarf (metal filing or material removed when sharpening), but more often than not are used to cut the costs of manufacturing the sharpener. Diamond abrasives have many advantages. They are aggressive, fast cutting, and due to their natural hardness, they are very long lasting. Diamond abrasives can be used without any lubrication like oil or water. The disadvantage of diamond abrasives is that they are so aggressive that it is easier to ruin or damage an edge. Ceramics Ceramic Stones make fantastic finishing stones. Because of their hardness, these stones can last a life time and are really very easy to maintain and clean. Ceramic stone can be used dry, with oil or water, and come in a variety of grits. The finer stones will leave an unparalleled polished edge to your blade and the coarser stone will remove material at an acceptable pace. Coarse ceramic stones can become glazed over when not used with lubrication, but when maintained properly, these stones can last generations. Water Stones Japanese Water Stones are highly praised for workshop and home sharpening. Water stones were originally natural occurring sedimentary stone found in Japan. Consisting primarily of fine silica particles bonded in a clay matrix, naturally occurring stones are so rare today that most modern water stones are manmade. Water stones are softer than other stones and use water as a lubricant to move away swarf when sharpening. The main advantage of water stones is that they wear constantly expose a new abrasive surface when sharpening through wearing down. They also form a slurry of water and the worn down abrasive to help remove material and polish the edge. This allows the stone to cut consistently and doesnandrsquo;t glaze over. Water stones come in a variety of grits, and allow the user to put a highly polished sharp edge on the knife. The disadvantage of water stones is that because of their soft constitution, they wear down quickly and need to be flattened using a special flattening stone. Water stones are also very fragile and need to be stored properly and will need to be replaced periodically. Like I mentioned at the beginning of this post, the type of stones you choose will ultimately come down to preference. I personally have and still use all the stones I mentioned above. I use different stones for different purposes. I carry at least one diamond sharpener on me when I travel, but I have water stones, ceramic stones, carbides and natural stones at home for sharpening a variety of different tools and blades. Choosing what sharpening abrasive is right for you means trying out many different abrasives and weighing which one you like the best and what you are looking for out of your sharpening. Thanks for staying with me and feel free to ask questions or comment in the thread below. Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest! -Billy March 12, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=437 In my Last Post, The Secrets of Steel- Part 2 , I explained the most popular High Carbon Steels used for knife making today. Now, I will admit a preference for High Carbon Steel fixed blades, mainly because I like the appeal of traditional carbon steel blades. I donandrsquo;t mind the extra maintenance involved in High Carbon Steel blades. The qualities of certain High Carbon Steels make them easier to work and temper, when building knives in my own workshop. Of course, this is my personal opinion and other people may disagree, but Stainless Steel blades can be fantastic for knives that need to be versatile like an everyday carry pocketknife. Personally, I need my pocket knife to be able to open letters, cut food, trim a thread and then sit un-used in my pocket for the rest of the day without any additional maintenance. Stainless Steel is great for those purposes. Itandrsquo;s corrosion resistant, easy to clean and esthetically pleasing. The biggest drawbacks of Stainless Steels compared to High Carbon Steel are that they arenandrsquo;t very strong, flexible (they tend to break or crack easily), they generally donandrsquo;t produce a very wear resistance/sharp edge and they wonandrsquo;t accept a variable (differential) temper. All of these small combined disadvantages make Stainless Steel blades less effective at doing heavy or intensive tasks such as batoning, carving and splitting. As I mentioned in my last post The Secrets of Steel- Part 2, Stainless Steel is considered to be any steel that has more than 13% chromium content. Chromium content makes the steel much more corrosive resistant but at the same time decreases wear resistant and toughness. Nickel may be added to the composition of Stainless Steel to offset the decrease in the steelandrsquo;s toughness. 420 Stainless Steels- 420 steels represent the low end of Stainless Steels. They have very low carbon content (andlt; .5%) and are very corrosion resistant. 420 steels are very soft and have very low wear resistance. Because of this, 420 steels donandrsquo;t temper well or take/hold an edge very well. On the positive side 420 steels are very tough and very easy to work because of how soft they are. 440 Series- The 440 steels are a higher quality Stainless Steel. These steels will harden when tempered and have more wear resistance than 420 steels, but just barely enough to be acceptable. The other advantage of the 440 family compared to 420 is the increased strength. 154 CM Steel- 154 CM is a high quality steel (super steel), which has a slightly higher carbon content and is a great improvement over 440. Itandrsquo;s a hard steel that hold an edge well. It has reasonably good toughness for how hard it is and has reasonable corrosion resistance for the carbon content. 8Cr MoV14 and 9Cr MoV Steels- Chinese made steels that are similar to 440 but with a higher carbon, cobalt and vanadium content to add more strength to the blade. The AUS Series- Japanese made steels are another improvement on 440. The AUS Series adds vanadium to the content to add strength, make the steel easier to sharpen and to retain an edge. The ATS Series- Very similar to 154CM steel (super steel), the ATS family are considered high quality steels. ATS-34 has more desirable qualities than ATS-55 due to ATS-34 vanadium content. Many high quality knives are made from ATS-34. VG 10- Another high quality Stainless Steel (super steel), VG-10 is very popular in modern knife making. Again, vanadium content is added to this steel to increase the steels toughness and strength. This steel is known to be very rust resistant and wear resistant. This steel will take and hold an edge well. Well, those are the most commonly used Stainless Steels for knife blades. Hopefully this has helped you understand the different qualities and functionality of the Stainless Steels out there today. Even though I do prefer High Carbon Steel, I think a good Stainless Steel blade has its place in anyoneandrsquo;s pocket, as long as youandrsquo;re in the right setting. I know I didnandrsquo;t list all available Stainless Steels, but I encourage questions and comments about this post or any other steels I didnandrsquo;t mention in the comment section. Iandrsquo;ll try to answer any questions you have. Stay an Edge Above the Rest. -Billy March 05, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=436Photo credit: Jeff Kubina / Foter.com / CC BY-SA Steel glorious steel! In my last blog post The Secrets of Steel, we learned a little bit about steel and the various properties that are great for making knife blades and for creating a great edge. Now itandrsquo;s time to expand our basic knowledge of steel and learn about the two basic classes of knife steel; High Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel. The big difference between High Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel comes down to the chromium content. Stainless Steel is loosely defined as a type of steel that has over 13% chromium. Chromium adds wear resistance, hardness and more importantly, corrosion resistance. That means that high chromium content in steel make the steel more resistant to oxidation (rusting). Thatandrsquo;s fantastic right? Well, like everything in life itandrsquo;s a give and take. High chromium content reduces the steelandrsquo;s toughness and makes it likely to break under pressure. This can be offset by adding nickel into the mix, which will help increase toughness, harden-ability and even wear resistance. Even after offsetting the chromium content, Stainless Steel does not produce a very tough, sharp edge compared to High Carbon Steel but will produce a serviceable blade and edge for everyday purposes. Now, Iandrsquo;ll say High Carbon Steel is my personal preference. High Carbon Steel rusts easily but I donandrsquo;t mind putting some extra care into my tools and knives. I absolutely love putting an edge on a blade thatandrsquo;s sharp enough to shave with. But, the big reason I tend to lean towards carbon steel blades is the temper. Temper or Tempering, is the last part of the heat treating process for a blade, and is done after the blade is fully profiled and quenched (when the blade is in its hardest state). Tempering is used to increase or decrease a bladeandrsquo;s hardness and flexibility to produce qualities that the knife maker desires. (Tempering is complicated and the scope of techniques, myths and rules are bit too much for this one post.) Now all knife blades have a temper but most High Carbon Steel blades can have a variable (differential) temper. Variable Tempering is the process of tempering different parts of the blade for desirable qualities (a blade with a very hard edge (sharp) but itsandrsquo; cheeks and spine are softer and more flexible). For example, a filet knife needs to be flexible and sharp. A knife maker would temper the spine and cheek at a high temperature to let the blade be very flexible without breaking, but he would temper the edge at a very low temp to keep the edge hard. A harder and more brittle edge will generally retain an edge better and will be much sharper than a softer edge. Then again, there is a give and take; a harder edge will often be very wear resistant and harder to sharpen. Now there are plenty of High Carbon Steels used for knife blades on the market today. Some are better than others, but really it comes down a balance of qualities and preference. High Carbon Steels Photo credit: whiteforge / Foter.com / CC BY-NC-SA D2- This High Carbon Steel is one of my personal favorite for knife making. D2 steel is an air-hardened tool steel that is considered andldquo;semi-stainlessandrdquo; because of its high chromium content (about 12%). This means D2 is more corrosion resistant that other High Carbon Steel but still has great wear resistance and toughness. D2 is a happy medium between stainless and high carbon steels. Itandrsquo;s easy to work and looks nice, but because itandrsquo;s air-hardened steel you canandrsquo;t differentially temper the blade like other High Carbon Steels. It can also be difficult to sharpen. A2- Is another air-hardened tool steel. A2 is very similar to D2 but a bit tougher and with less wear resistance. The 10 Series of Steels- (1095-1050) - The 10 series is another one of my personal favorites: 1095 and 1075 for making knives: 1050 and 1060 for machetes or even swords. The 10 Series are generally considered simple tool steels that have a lot of desirable properties for knife blades. They hold an edge well and are easy to sharpen but they tend to rust easily. The big advantage to the 10 Series of Steels is their ability to take a differential temper and produce different qualities across the parts of the blade. O1- A very popular blade steel with blacksmiths, O1 is considered to beandldquo;forgivingandrdquo; steel that is easy to work and takes a differential temper well. O1 is truly great steel, it takes and holds an edge very well and is very tough. Not to be confused with O6 Steel which is very similar to O1 but O6 steel is little tougher and it produces a very sharp edge with greater edge retention. L6- Similar to O1, L6 steel is often considered to be one of the best steels available for knife making. L6 steel is often used to make saw blades. Knives made from L6 steel need constant maintenance. CPM Series of Steels (CPM 10V, CPM-3V, CPM-M4) andndash; These tool steels are some of the most wear resistant steels you can find, but they differ on toughness. CPM-3V and CPM-M4 have pretty good toughness for tool steel while retaining its wear resistance. CPM 10V is not very tough. W-2 - Reasonably tough and holds an edge well, W-2 and W-1 are basic carbon steels with some extra carbon. Most files are made from W-1, which is the same as W-2 except for the vanadium content (W-1 has no vanadium). These steels rust easily. 5160- This steel is renowned for its toughness, harden-ability and reasonable toughness. Chromium is added to the steel to add some strength and harden-ability but not enough to produce stainless steel. 5160 is great for making large blades like Bowieandrsquo;, kukris and swords due to its toughness. 52100- This steel is very similar to 5160 but it sacrifices some toughness for better edge holding ability and wear resistance. Also, 52100 has much less chromium than other steelsandrsquo; and is more likely to rust quickly. This steel is popular for smaller hunting knives used primarily for processing and skinning, but it can be used for some larger knives. Well, those are the most commonly used High Carbon Steels for knife blades. Hopefully this has helped you understand the different qualities of the High Carbon Steels. I didnandrsquo;t list all available steels but I encourage questions and comments about this post or the different High Carbon Steels in the comment section. Iandrsquo;ll try to answer any questions you have. Thanks for staying with me; this was a long, but hopefully eduational post. Stay an Edge Above the Rest. -Billy February 26, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=434The Secrets of Steel andldquo;The soul of your blade, is found in its steelandrdquo;- Anonymous Steel composition is big deal in the knife world these days. With a plethora of different steels to choose from, each knife maker/manufacturer proudly displays their knivesandrsquo; particular steel and will sing its praises. But I often find myself asking, what does the average knife user know about knife steel? For a long time I looked at steel type as a block of nonsensical numbers and letters that didnandrsquo;t really tell me much. I heard through the grape vine that carbon steels were better, so I just went with carbon steel knives and sneered at all the stainless steel knives. The specific composition didnandrsquo;t really mean much to me. As the years progressed, I started hand making knives and decided it was time to learn a bit more about steel and the different compositions and their properties. Now, this is a complex and lengthy subject, so Iandrsquo;m going to take my time over the next couple of weeks and pass on the secrets of steel to you. Steel in its purest form is a mixture (alloy) of iron and carbon. Without getting into too much of the science, letandrsquo;s break it down to the fact that when carbon is andldquo;mixedandrdquo; with iron, the carbon acts as a hardening agent that prevents the iron atom from breaking down. This is fantastic! With the addition of carbon, iron becomes steel, which has a slew of properties that make it perfect for making blades. Now, carbon must be present to form steel but other elements can be/are combined with iron and carbon to form steel with a bunch of different qualities. Small amounts of elements such as; magnesium, chromium, nickel, phosphorus, molybdenum, tungsten, vanadium, sulfur and silicon are added to the mix and produce the wide variety of the steels we find today. Atomic Structure of Steel What we are really looking for in steel are the different properties established by their composition. Whatandrsquo;s more important to you, durability or wear resistance, hardness or ductility? Choosing blade steel is often a give or take experience, you have to find the right balance of desirable properties for your ideal blade. Some of the most important properties when dealing with steel blades are: Hardness- The steelandrsquo;s basic Rockwell Hardness or the ability of the steel to resist permanent deformation. Strength- The steelandrsquo;s ability to resist applied force Toughness- The steelandrsquo;s ability to absorb energy before actually breaking Ductility- The steelandrsquo;s ability to flex or bend without cracking/breaking Temper-ability- The steelandrsquo;s ability to be hardened or tempered Wear Resistance- The steelandrsquo;s ability to resist abrasion (important when dealing with sharpening) Corrosion Resistance- The steelandrsquo;s resistance to oxidation (rust) Edge Retention- The steels ability to maintain an edge (not the same thing as wear resistance!) Ability to take an Edge- Just like it sounds, how easy is it to put an edge on it. For the most part fine grain steels takes an edge much better than coarse grain steels Now, I get a lot of questions like andldquo;What is the best knife steel?andrdquo; Generally my answer is andldquo;None.andrdquo; Steel is an important factor to take into consideration when choosing a blade. Understanding the different properties of different steels (listed above) is a great start, but steel type is far from the only factor to consider when choosing a knife. Important questions to ask yourself when choosing a knife are, andldquo;How is the blade tempered?andrdquo; and andldquo;What are you using the knife for?andrdquo; Iandrsquo;m going to stop there for now and let the basics sink in. Make sure to stay tuned for next weekandrsquo;s post. Iandrsquo;ll be discussing the different compositions and properties of some of the more popular High Carbon knife steels. Remember, Be Smart, Be Safe and Stay an Edge Above the Rest! February 19, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=433Alright knife fans, now that you've committed the anatomy of the knife blade to your memory, letandrsquo;s move on to the rest of the knife. I know I've said it before and Iandrsquo;ll say it again; the bladeandrsquo;s edge is the true technology that we are concerned with. Thatandrsquo;s not to say the other parts of the knife aren't as important, but I like to look at the rest of a knife as a way to compliment the edge I am using. Apart from just the aesthetic design of a knife; the guard, handle and how all the pieces are attached is an important factor when deciding what knife is the best for your purposes. So letandrsquo;s take the plunge one more time with fixed blade anatomy focusing on the guard, handle, tang(s and beyond! FIXED BLADE ANATOMY The Guard on a knife is located between the handle and the blade, sandwiched between the ricasso and the handle. The guardandrsquo;s purpose is to literally guard your hand from slipping up the handle and onto the blade. Just like anything else knife related, guards come in different shapes and styles. Some are purely decorative, they line up perfectly with the handle and offering no protection and some guards are meant purely for balance. Guards that are intended to protect your hand will often have Quillions; a section of the guard that extends past the handle to protect the knife users hand from slipping onto the blade. Commonly, quillions found on outdoor style knives will extend out to the front of the knife but quillions found on more aggressive fighting or multipurpose blade will extend out from both the front and back of the blade. If a knife lacks a guard it may have a Bolster (not shown); a bolster is usually found between the blade and the handle (although bolsters can be found on different sections of the handle) and is often sandwiching the bladeandrsquo;s tang. The Bolster can provide balance to a blade and is more commonly found on full tang knives. Bolsters can also be used to andldquo;bolsterandrdquo; or strengthen the weak points on a knife, such as where the blade ends and the tang and handle begins. Bolster may also be shaped like a guard (with quillions) to offer protection. Next, we have the Handle. The handle of a knife is the portion you grip. Handles come in all shapes and sizes and can be made from countless materials and combinations. Handles are a very important aspect of a blade, Iandrsquo;ve heard it said andldquo;The blade is what makes a knife; the handle is what sells itandrdquo;. How the handle is attached to a blade plays a large role in the actual strength and durability of a knife. The Handle of a knife can be attached in several ways. This is done through the Tang of a knife blade. The Tang is the stock material portion of the blade steel that extends from the blade for the purpose of attaching the handle and hardware. Tangs are an important factor when constructing a blade; they will help determine overall weight, balance and usage of the knife. There are several types of knife tangs, but they can be broken down simply into two categories Full Tang and Partial Tang. Full Tang (displayed above) - refers to a knife tang that extends the full length and width of the handle and is often visible. Full tang constructed knives generally form the handle by the use of Scale material. Scales refer to two pieces of handle material that sandwich the tang between them and are attached to the tang by adhesive and/or rivets /pins. Full Tang knife construction is generally considered the most durable and solid knife construction available and is intended for hard working knives that can take a solid beating. Skeletonized Tang A tang that has portions of material removed from the tang stock. Often found on knives with full tang construction but without handle material. Skeletonized tang construction is popular on bare bones survival blades and neck knives. May feature a cord wrapped handle. Partial Tang refers to a knife tang that doesnandrsquo;t fully extend and/or match the width of the blade and handle material. Generally considered weaker than Full Tangs, Partial Tangs have their place in the knife world and generally produce much lighter knives. Partial Tangs can be broken down further in sub categories. Push Tang A shortened tang that tapers after the blade portion of a knife. Partial Tangs donandrsquo;t generally run the full length of the handle and are pushed or forced into the handle material and secured with adhesive. Hidden Tang Very similar to a Push Tang, the Hidden Tang tapers after the blade portion and is attached to the handle with adhesive and generally has no outside evidence of its attachment. Hidden Tangs can also run longer than the full length of the handle and can be secured by a pommel/butcap through threading and screwing like a nut and bolt or by peening the end. Rat Tail and Stick Tangs Also known as a andldquo;false tangandrdquo; is the weakest of knife tangs. Rat tail tangs are generally reserved for cheap or display knives. Either a piece of steel welded to the blade or a significant and abrupt taper from the blade, rat tail tangs are to be avoided. The final piece of anatomy for a fixed blade knife is the Pommel (or Butt Cap) (not shown). Not every knife features a pommel, they are most often found on hidden tang knives. A Pommel can serve multiple purposes aside from a method to attach and secure a handle and guard, a pommel can be used to add balance to a knife or it can even be used a striking surface. Well thatandrsquo;s it for our series on Fixed Blade Knife Anatomy. I know we didnandrsquo;t cover every single variation found on fixed blade knives but by now the essential parts of a knife should be pretty clear. Make sure to keep an eye out for next week blog post as we continue to explore knives and sharpening. Stay and Edge above the Rest! -Billy February 12, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=431Here on the Lansky Sharpeners Blog weandrsquo;ve been providing some serious education on all the different types of blades and grinds. When you first start learning about knife sharpening and knives, it can be like trying to sip from a fire hydrant on full blast; thereandrsquo;s a lot of information and it comes at you fast. For such a seemingly simple concept, knives and knife sharpening can get very complicated, very fast. So, what makes it seem so complicated? First off, the sea of terminology used to describe different parts of knives can be daunting. Many of the terms used to describe the different parts of a knife stem from other languages and historical terms not in use today. Second, knives have gone through (and still do) so many modifications and changes over the years and more and more terms are added to the vocabulary. Combine these two factors and it could lead a grown man to hide in a corner weeping over the good old days when a knife had three parts; a blade, guard and handle. So wash your hands, slip on your lab coat and put that silly paper mask on. Itandrsquo;s time to learn anatomy; Fixed Blade Knife Anatomy. Letandrsquo;s start with the basics; the visible characteristics on a basic fixed blade knife going from the tip of the blade to ricasso. As I mentioned in my last post Knife Blade Profiles and Uses knife blade come in many shapes and types. Though knife blades may have different characteristics and design, their anatomy (the different sections and pieces that form a serviceable knife) can generally be broken down with just a few variances. FIXED BLADE ANATOMY The Blade The Tip or Point of a blade is simple; itandrsquo;s the pointy end of the blade. You should know that by now, but I wonandrsquo;t blame you. Tip and point can be used interchangeably but may be used separately to describe two different aspects of the anatomy. The andldquo;pointandrdquo; being literally the point where the spine and edge meet and the andldquo;tipandrdquo; referring to a small section at the front of the blade that leads up to the point. The Cheek or Face of a blade refers to each side of the blade, often used to refer to the section separate from the grind but can be used to refer to each side of the blade, including the grind. The Spine of a blade refers to the dull, unsharpened back of a blade, the opposite side of the edge. Double edged blades (daggers) do not have a spine but most knives found in the home or for outdoor use will have a spine. The Grind or Bevel of the blade is explained thoroughly in my post Knife Edge Grinds and Uses and refers to the cross section of the blade, or the section ground down to form the Edge. For more information about different grinds and their significance, follow my link above. The Edge is the cutting surface of a blade that extends from point to heel. Itandrsquo;s the sharp part! And also, the reason I have gainful employment. The Belly of the blade refers to the curved section of the edge leading up to the tip. The belly on a blade increases the surface area of the edge and aids in making cuts or slices. Blades with large curved edges like fillet knives and scimitar style daggers have large bellies intended for strong slicing cuts. The Heel of the blade refers the section of the blade next to the guard or handle. The heel encompasses a small section of the grind, the Plunge Line and the Ricasso. The Plunge Line is where the grind stops and meets the edge, often at a right angle to the grind. The Ricasso is the unsharpened section of a blade, closest to the guard/handle. Some blades may have a Choil. A choil is an unsharpened indent on a blade where it meets the handle or at the plunge line. The size of a choil dictates its purpose, if itandrsquo;s large then it can be used as a forward finger grip. If itandrsquo;s small then the choil may be there to creat a stopping point when sharpening, to protect the handle. A Fuller or Blood Groove (not shown) is a decorative feature that runs the length or a partial length of the blade. A fuller may be used to reduce the weight of the blade but often is used purely for decoration. Jibbing (not shown) refers to a pattern of gouges or notches made on the spine of a blade close to the handle. Jibbing is used to aid in grip when doing fine work and as a decorative feature. Thatandrsquo;s the anatomy of the basic blade on a knife; I think weandrsquo;ll stop there for now. Remember, more knowledge = a sharper knife, so let this information soak in. Make sure to join me next week as we continue to explore fixed blade knife anatomy in; Anatomy of the Knife: Fixed Blade Knives - Part 2: The Guard, Handle and Tang. Make sure to bookmark this blog, email it to a friend or add our RSS feed. Stay an Edge above the Rest! -Billy February 05, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=429 Knife Blade Profiles and Uses If you took the time to read my last blog post, andldquo;Knife Edge Grinds and Usesandrdquo;, then you should have a fairly decent idea of the different knife grinds out there and what they are most commonly used for. The edge or grind on a knife is the true andldquo;technologyandrdquo; that allows us to use a knife properly but in many cases the shape or profile of a knife blade can be equally important. Much like the grind of knife the profile of a knife implies a lot about the blades use and can also say a lot about culture, utility and history of the knife you carry. **andrdquo;tipandrdquo; and andldquo;pointandrdquo; are used interchangeably The Simple/Normal Blade A simple blade has a straight spine with a curving edge that meets to form the tip of the knife, which is on the same plane and parallel to the spine of the knife. The straight spine of this knife allows the blade to be used with both hands for safely adding pressure. This also allows the user to concentrate the force of their cut to a smaller area, which increases the cutting edgeandrsquo;s effectiveness. The simple blade is a very strong blade type, these knife profiles are ideal for heavier work such as batoning wood and cutting heavy rope or roots. The simple blade is a must have knife for people trying to improve their sharpening skills and knowledge. Trailing Point Blade A trailing point blade has a large curved edge and the spine curves upward to meet the edge forming the tip of the blade. The tip is generally found higher than the handle in profile and gave rise to the name andldquo;trailing pointandrdquo;. The curve of this blade allows for greater surface area of the edge (called a andlsquo;bellyandrsquo;) which aids in slicing, slashing and making long, even cuts. This type of knife profile is most commonly used for fillet knives, but also seen in slashing weapons. The large surface area of the edge combined with the thin tip make it ideal for processing fish and other small wild life. Clip Point Blade A clip point blade is similar to the simple/normal blade where it has a (mostly) straight spine. What makes it different is that near the tip of the blade the rest of the spine is andldquo;clippedandrdquo; (has a section of the blade that is seemingly removed) and forms the tip of the blade. The andldquo;clippedandrdquo; section of the blade can be either concave or straight and may even posses a false edge on the spine which can be sharpened. This type of blade profile forms a much finer, or needle like tip to the blade which makes it ideal for piercing or cutting/slicing in tight spots. The tip of the blade is often either parallel to the center of the blade or parallel to the spine of the blade. A clip point blade with a tip that is parallel to the center of the blade has the advantage of more control and force when piercing. Clip point blades are very popular and can be found on a range of blades from pocket folders to large fix blade hunting and fighting knives. The iconic American Bowie is a classic example of a clip point blade. Drop Point Blades A drop point blade has a convex curve to the spine as it approaches the tip of the blade. Or simply put, the spine of the blade starts to andldquo;dropandrdquo; towards the tip of the blade where it meets the curve of the belly (edge) of the blade to form the tip. The drop point blade profile creates a blade with a strong, robust tip that is easy to direct when cutting or piercing. Ideal for everyday carry and simple chores, the drop point profile is very popular and used on a variety of pocket knives and fixed blade knives. The popular Swiss Army Knife and many chefsandrsquo; knives feature a classic drop point profile. Spear Point Blade A spear point blade is a symmetrically pointed blade with a tip that is in line with the center line of the blade's axis. Generally formed with double edges, a spear point blade is primarily used for piercing and is considered a thrusting weapon known as a dagger (although dagger is a broad term used for many types of blades across many cultures). Many modifications throughout the years have produced a variety of single and double edge spear point blades on fix blades and folders but the design is generally not practical for everyday carry and is primarily used on tactical or fighting knives. Needle Point Blade A needle point blade can be considered a variation of the spear point blade but the symmetrical blade tapers significantly to form the needle like tip. Examples of needle point blades include stilettos and the Arkansas Toothpick. Spey Point Blade A spey point blade is a straight edge blade that has a sudden, defined curve near the tip of the blade. The spine of the knife is also mostly straight, but near the tip of the blade the spine angles downward quickly to meet the curving edge and forms the tip of the blade. This allows the tip of the blade to be slightly obtuse and unlikely to pierce accidentally when doing fine work. This blade type was originally used for speying animals but has become popular in trapper style knives for skinning and dressing animals due to the muted tip on the blade. Tanto Blade A tanto style blade, sometimes referred to as a chisel point blade, follows the tradition of Japanese swords and daggers. This single edge blade has a straight spine and a primarily straight edge until it approaches the tip of the blade. Close to the tip of the blade, the edge angles upward to meet the spine at a straight or slightly convex angle. This produces a very strong and durable tip to the blade due to the blade thickness present at the tip, but also slightly decreases its effectiveness for piercing. Tanto style blades have become very popular for everyday carry folders and tactical fixed/folder knifes. These blades can be difficult to sharpen due to the angle presented at the tip of the blade but have found a home in modern knife culture as a very popular blade type. Sheepsfoot Blade Sheepsfoot blades have a completely straight edge with a spine that convexes down to meet the edge at the andldquo;tipandrdquo; of the blade. This design produces a very safe knife with no actual andldquo;tipandrdquo; to pierce with. Originally used to trim the hooves on sheep, the sheepsfoot blade is popular for fine work such as woodcarving or even electrical work. Sheepsfoot blades also have a long history of being used on ships to cut rope because when a ship rocks suddenly you are unlikely to stab yourself with the blade. Sheepsfoot blades are great blades that donandrsquo;t get enough use, the perfect blade type for teaching wood carving, knife sharpening and knife skills for newbies/children. Hawkbill Blade A hawkbill style blade is simply a blade that has a concave cutting edge and a claw like shape. Hawkbill blades donandrsquo;t have much of a tip for piercing but are ideal for cutting and carving, especially long cuts like when installing carpet or linoleum. The shape of the blade and cutting edge allows the hawkbill to grab material easily and reduces the risk of accidently stabbing yourself if you slip up. Hawkbill blades also have a long history of being used as a slashing weapon in eastern cultures. The Hawkbill has also found resurgence as a defensive tool today with modern tactical/fighting blades. Although there are many, many variations of blades out there today, these nine blade types cover the most common blade profile types youandrsquo;ll find today. These classic profiles are utilized worldwide and their uses honestly depend on whose hand the knife is in. I personally really enjoy simple/normal profile and drop point profile blades for my everyday carry and outdoors knives, but I also use a variety of blades for woodworking and utility, including sheepsfoot blades as well as hawkbill blades. I suggest finding what knife feels the most comfortable for you and works for your purposes. Make sure to take other peoples advice with a grain of salt. The knife you carry is a personal affair and only you can determine what blade type you prefer. Make sure to bookmark this blog, email it to a friend or add our RSS feed. Stay tuned as we explore the anatomy of knives in my next post. Stay an Edge above the Rest! -Billy January 28, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=426Knife Edge Grinds and Uses The knife is an amazing thing, so common that we often dismiss its importance and value in our everyday lives. Mankind has been using a sharpened edge to interact and manipulate our surrounding environment as far back as we have walked the earth. The knife is the original tool. Much like the human race, knives have gone through significant changes over time. Weandrsquo;ve clearly come a long way from stone tools (though Iandrsquo;m sure some primitive tool enthusiasts would be happy to argue with me). Today you can find knives made from a variety of material from ceramic to steel and even; simple stone blades. As I mentioned in my post andldquo;A Sharp Knifeandrdquo;, proper maintenance of your blades should be a priority. This can be difficult and a little confusing with the large variety of knives and knife grinds on the market. First things first, it is all about the edge with grinds and is different from the type of blade. The different knife grinds (edge!) have different qualities that include strengths, weaknesses and preferred uses. They also have different maintenance needs including styles of sharpening. Stay with me as I walk you through the different knife grinds and give you the pros and cons. Flat Flat ground blades can be considered the simple edge. They are very simple but can come in a couple different varieties. A full flat ground blade classically refers to blades that form a classic andldquo;Vandrdquo; shape, where both sides taper toward each other at a consistent angle until they meet. Examples of true full flat ground blades are difficult to find now as most blade manufacturers include a second or compound bevel (explained below). Common examples include chefandrsquo;s knives and the popular line of affordable Spydercoandtrade; Tenacious knives (though these knives may be considered in the High Flat family) . High Flat grinds and Sabre (Scandi) grinds are far more common today, though they often have a slight compound bevel as well. These grinds will be a uniform thickness starting at the spine. The V shaped, flat grind bevel often starts between the spine and the edge and tapers evenly towards the edge. High Flat ground blades bevel starts high up near the spine. With Scandi (Sabre) blades the grind will start below the midway point, towards the edge. The High Flat and Scandi grinds are ideal for whittling or woodworking. The pronounced bevel allows you to easily follow the edge in relation to the wood grain. Flat ground blades have the advantage of being very sharp and extremely easy to sharpen on a flat stone and in the field. The disadvantage is that the edge isnandrsquo;t terribly durable and will (turn) dull quickly. Convex Convex edges are some of the most difficult to sharpen but they are extremely durable and sharp. A convex edge is where the bevel on each side of the blade is slightly rounded (convex!) as they taper to form the edge. Convex edges are truly difficult to accomplish by hand on a flat stone and are considered a highly specialized grind. Convex grinds are ideal for chopping and splitting tools such as axes and machetes. The durability combined with the shape make quick work of splitting/chopping. The rounded shape of the edge doesnandrsquo;t get clinched up in wood and also helps separate the two halves of the wood youandrsquo;re splitting. This is why it is also referred to as the andldquo;Axe grindandrdquo;. Hollow Hollow ground blades have been very popular in the hunting and sporting community. Think of your fatherandrsquo;s or grandfatherandrsquo;s hunting knife, I bet your thinking of a hollow ground blade. Examples of hollow ground blades include the classic Buck Knife, straight razors and the Legendary American Bowie Knife. The hollow ground blade has a characteristic concave grind to the edge, so that both sides of the knife have a bevel that is bowing inward until they meet. This produces a thin and wickedly sharp edge but itandrsquo;s not durable and needs constant maintenance. The hollow grind has a long history of use in the hunting community because the thin and extremely sharp edge is great for field dressing animals. Chisel Chisel ground blades are exactly what you think they might be, chisel shaped. This grind is most often found on chisels but can also be found on other types of blades such as high end Japanese chef knives, modern folders and some modern andldquo;artandrdquo; tactical knives. Chisel ground blades have only a single bevel on one side of the blade and the other side is completely flat. Similar to a flat Sabre ground blade the bevel of a chisel ground blade will start about mid-way between the spine and edge and will then taper in a straight line towards the edge, but this only happens on one side of the blade. Chisel grind creates a sharp edge but requires constant maintenance due to the single bevel. Often the angle of the bevel for chisel ground blades is slightly more obtuse (25anddeg;-35anddeg;) to create a more durable edge. This grind is ideal for woodworking because you can follow the wood grain in relation to the bevel. It is also used in kitchen knives because the flat side of the blade helps separate slices of food being chopped up. Compound Bevel The Compound Bevel (also known as the double bevel) is the most common grind that you will find on knives today and is present on almost any modern blade. The compound bevel is added to a blade grind and generally cannot be present without some incarnation of the grinds mentioned above. The compound bevel is another, secondary bevel that is added to an existing grind. The compound bevel is more obtuse than the primary bevel and will form the actual edge of the knife, this helps adds durability to a blades edge and will lower the likelihood of an edge turning. Asymmetrical Asymmetrical grinds simply describe a grind that uses separate bevel angles for each side of the blade. Asymmetrical grinds are most often found either with convex grinds or with flat grinds. This grind is often used to produce a more durable edge and can be found on some popular folders on the market. The Asymmetrical grind is can be found on tactical style knives because of the combination of a durability, strength and sharpness. Well folks, thatandrsquo;s the basics of knife grinds. Many of these grinds can be modified or combined to form specialized grinds. Understanding the basics of how they differ and what tasks they are appropriate for will hopefully help you select the right tool for the job and help you learn some basic sharpening skills. Make sure to bookmark this blog, email it to a friend or add our RSS feed. Stay tuned as we explore knives and sharpening techniques for all different styles of blades. Stay an Edge Above the Rest! Billy January 21, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=425The Difference Between Honing and Sharpening Hello and welcome back to the Lansky Sharpeners Blog. I hope everyone enjoyed my last post about the importance of A Sharp Knife. The importance of keeping your blades sharp is an easy subject for me to step up on my soap box and rant about. Having a properly maintained tool means that whatever use you have for your blade, you can be sure that it will do the job properly. Remember one of the main points in my last post; have the right tool for the right job. Our goal at Lansky Sharpeners is to make this blog more than just a weekly rant about our products. We want to help people understand sharpening and make it an easy, enjoyable experience. I hope to use this blog to continue answering questions and tackling some of the inherent problem found in the sharpening world. One of the biggest misconceptions I have found in the wide world of sharpening is that sharpening and honing are interchangeable terms. andldquo;Honingandrdquo; is often used as just a fancy term for sharpening. Well surprise! Sharpening and honing are actually two separate processes and an understanding of their differences (and similarities) can really help you increase the effectiveness of your bladeandrsquo;s edge and your blade maintenance skills. It can get even more confusing because sharpening tools can also be called andldquo;honesandrdquo;. The first step to learning the differences between sharpening and honing is simple; DONandrsquo;T PANIC. It is easy to apply to both sharpening and honing because they use the same general techniques and skills. Sharpening is defined by the act of taking material away from the blades edge. Usually this is accomplished by andldquo;grindingandrdquo; the edge of a knife against an appropriate sharpening stone or apparatus. The process of sharpening includes setting an edgeandrsquo;s bevel so that both sides meet evenly to form a proper symmetrical edge. The goal is to form the smallest possible intersection between the bladeandrsquo;s bevels. This is why the process of sharpening uses coarser stone generally ranging between 200 grit to 800 grit. This inherently leaves the bladeandrsquo;s edge rough and will form a andlsquo;wire edgeandrsquo;. A wire edge is the thin microscopic edge formed when sharpening. A wire edge is very sharp but also very weak. The process of honing uses finer grit stones ranging from 1000 grit to 10,000 grit. This will refine the rough surface of the edge and slowly polishing the wire edge away. As you can see honing is really just the process of preparing and maintaining an already sharp edge. As you polish out the rough surface of the edge and slowly work the wire edge into a more durable state you are making your blade more efficient. Polishing the rough surface of the edge significantly reduces the friction caused when cutting into material, and makes your blade a more useful tool. As I mentioned before honing is also a maintenance process. When you use extremely fine grit stones, steel or strop to maintain an edge you are honing. Honing is something that should be done on a regular basis; it will help define the blades edge and will polish small blemishes and marks from regular use. I often suggest using a quality honing steel every time you use your kitchen knives and to strop your working/pocket knives before and after heavy use or every other day. This will keep your microscopic edge straight and reduce how often you actually have to sharpen. Okay folks, thatandrsquo;s it! I hope you have been enjoying the Lansky Sharpeners blog so far. Make sure to bookmark this blog, email it to a friend or add our RSS feed. I definitely encourage any question or comments on our posts or products. BillyJanuary 10, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=417A Sharp Knife Hello and welcome back to the Lansky Sharpeners Blog. Iandrsquo;m going to start with the basics; A Sharp Knife. In basketball they say, andldquo;Itandrsquo;s all about the fundamentals andldquo;, and that saying is true to knife sharpening as well. The basics of the process are what matters the most. When it comes down to learning how to sharpen, most people start with a simple knife. It doesnandrsquo;t matter whether itandrsquo;s a kitchen, pocket or hunting knife. Itandrsquo;s getting that edge sharp that matters. The goal remains the same; for all the techniques, stones and systems in the sharpening world; A Sharp Knife. There are 101 (and probably a lot more) different ways to get your knife sharp. Many of you probably have some predetermined opinions and questions about sharpening. I know over the years Iandrsquo;ve had to disillusion myself from a lot of concepts and opinions I had about sharpening. Some of the questions you might be asking yourself are: - Why does my knife need to be sharp? - Isnandrsquo;t sharpening difficult? - What is the secret to sharpening? Why does my knife need to be sharp? I bet a lot of you are thinking andldquo;Billy you must really be crazy. Why would I be reading this if I didnandrsquo;t know why a knife needs to be sharp? andldquo; Well I am crazy, thank you very much and Iandrsquo;m still going to explain it. There are two basic reasons a knife needs to be sharp; the first of which is safety. Thatandrsquo;s right safety. A dull knife is far more dangerous to use than one that is sharp and properly maintained. A dull knife doesnandrsquo;t do its job properly. Your knife can slip without a proper edge to bite into the material youandrsquo;re cutting. Just because it canandrsquo;t cut that piece of rope or wood youandrsquo;re trying to cut does not mean that it canandrsquo;t cut you or those around you. Using more force than necessary is a very common way for people to get injured when people are using sharp tools. If a knife is dull then you use that extra force. This brings me to my second reason. Have the right tool for the right job. A knife isnandrsquo;t a proper tool unless it has a good edge. A good analogy is that a knife without an edge is like a hammer without a head. That knife wonandrsquo;t cut and that hammer wonandrsquo;t hammer! Have you ever watched someone totally avoid their straight edge blades in the kitchen? Instead of chopping up an onion, they saw through one with a serrated bread knife! A dull knife is a knife that doesnandrsquo;t get used anymore. Instead of using the proper tool for the job we find a lesser alternative. And when does that work out well? Isnandrsquo;t sharpening difficult? Well yes, and no. Sharpening is both an art and a science. Using freehand methods often take practice, experience and knowledge. Like any other skill it needs to be honed (pun totally intended). Luckily, today we have different methods and systems to help people sharpen their knives and tools. It all started when Arthur Lansky invented the Controlled Angle Sharpening System and made his dream a reality in 1979. Arthurandrsquo;s easy to use system demystified the art of sharpening and honing, letting inexperienced people sharpen their blades at home and learn more about the process of sharpening. Using a Controlled Angle system helps create the ground work for people to understand different grinds, bevels and angles. Once the ground work is set, a deeper understanding of the process grows and you find that you can transfer some of the skills you learn with the Controlled Angle system to other methods like using Crock Sticks and free hand sharpening. Whatandrsquo;s the secret of sharpening? The secret is to stay tuned to the Lansky Sharpenerandrsquo;s Blog to learn more about the sharpening process, blade types and techniques. Okay, I had to get a shameless marketing plug in there somewhere. But the real secret is less exciting and Iandrsquo;m sure youandrsquo;re already aware of it. Knowledge and experience my friends. Knowledge and experience (and a good collection of Lansky stones). Okay folks, that is it! I hope you enjoyed the first topic on the Lansky Sharpeners blog. Make sure to bookmark this blog, email it to a friend or add our RSS feed. Stay tuned for next weekandrsquo;s topic andldquo;The Difference Between Honing and Sharpeningandrdquo;. Billy the Blade Crazy Blogger January 07, 2013 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=415Hello and welcome to the Lansky Sharpeners Blog, where you can find the latest and greatest news, tips, advice and everything else remotely related to sharpening. We are going to cover everything from great new products and sharpening tutorials/tricks to knife steels and blade types. If we play our cards right weandrsquo;ll also feature some guest bloggers and have some great interviews, featured right here on Lansky Sharpenerandrsquo;s blog. So if youandrsquo;re an outdoorsman (or woman), cook, craftsman, knife nut or anybody in between, bookmark this blog, email it to a friend or add our RSS feed. We would also really love to get your feedback on sharpening, our products and this blog. Let us know about any topics youandrsquo;d like to see discussed, submit your own tips and tricks and let us know how you use your Lansky products. Watch out for our next blog post andldquo;A Sharp Knifeandrdquo; and until next time, stay an edge above the rest. Billy the Blade Crazy Blogger June 03, 2011 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=358If you've done enough cutting to equal carving a full turkey, then you probably need to sharpen your knife. If you're chopping through chicken breasts and hitting bone, you might need to sharpen after three or four chickens. Remember, a sharp knife is a safe knife! As you can tell, we're hungry while we're writing this. March 11, 2011 13:05:12 EDThttp://lansky.com/index.php?cID=334We at Lansky Sharpeners are excited to finally be able to launch our new website. Itandrsquo;s something weandrsquo;ve been working on for some time. Our goal is to create a richer experience for our users and hopefully provide an indispensible resource for answers on all things sharpening. After all, when youandrsquo;ve been doing this as long as we have, you tend to learn a thing or two about knife and tool sharpening. Besides useful instructions, videos and the latest Lansky innovations, our new site will add a personal touch to the communications with friends like you through our interactive blog. Itandrsquo;s the perfect forum for you to ask, and us to answer frequently and not so frequently asked questions. As it grows, expect it to be a one-stop resource for any sharpening or related questions you may have. We will continue to be adding content on a regular basis, so please subscribe to this blog so you can get all the Lansky Sharpener exclusives, straight from the horseandrsquo;s mouth the second itandrsquo;s published. Lansky Sharpeners