What would really be great would be if you could give users some more information about the details of sharpening and which tools are best for which job in the blog. For example, I have your deluxe 5-stone set, but there are still many questions I have after reading the instructions and watching the video. Would there be a benefit to me in picking up one of your diamond stones for certain types of knives or are the stones I have good for every type of blade? If I were to buy some stones not included with my kit, how would I know which to buy for what purpose? When sharpening, how do you judge whether to start with the course or medium stone? What would I use the extra course stone for? When would you use the ultra-fine stone... only for razors and x-acto knives, or for kitchen knives as well? Your blog could be a nice place for people to learn more about sharpening beyond the 1-2-3 stuff in the video.

I would like more information on using the sharpening system on various blades, like my knifes with "tanto" points. I cannot seem to get a good edge on the tanto blade end with the clamping system and I know there must be a better way than leaving the clamp half-on half-off angle I am now using.

Rob,

The Deluxe 5-Stone Alumina Oxide Kit will work on any knife except ceramic or serrated blades. You may want to consider investing in either a Coarse or Extra Coarse Diamond hone and a medium serrated sharpening hone to complete your kit.

The diamond stones are more aggressive and will get your knife sharpened faster than the alumina oxide stones you currently have. The diamonds are especially good for setting an edge on an extremely dull knife or re-setting the edge if you want to change the angle on the blade (ie. 25 degree to 17 degree). If you are trying to "bring a blade back from the dead", the x-coarse alumina may take too much time, but will still get the job done...so you might want a coarse diamond.

For finishing and polishing, a super fine ceramic or alumina oxide will be better than most fine diamonds. You can use the ultra fine on anything if you want a perfect sharp. It is a bit of a "vanity" hone, but I like to use it. Some people stop at fine because it is "good enough" for their needs.

If you have chips in your blade or you feel the medium is not getting the job done, you should start with the coarse hone. Also, you should use more pressure with the coarse hones and gradually decrease your pressure as you move to fine. Make sure you use the oil on the alumina oxide hones to lift up the metal shavings and clean it regularly. Otherwise, the metal clogs up the stone and it acts like there is no grit remaining. (Note, you don't need to use oil on diamonds. Brush first and then a little water and a brush again.)

Scott

I have a black coated knife, and a clamp style sharpener. I often find that the clamp will come loose and the knife will get a little movement. My question is; Do you have any tricks to protect the finish on the blade from the clamp? I also have worn the guidrods so that they dont stay straight or tight. Do you replace the worn guide rods? I do have to say that for all the years I have owned the sharpening system, My set includes 8 stones That keep all my prized knifes razor sharp at all times. Thanks for a great product.
rob

Hello, you mention that you don't need honinh oil on diamond. Why do you include a bottle in the diamond kit?

Thanks,
Marc

Wanlong Diamond Tools Co., Ltd. specializing in the production of diamond saw blades and segment , stone abrasive, diamond drilling tools. Welcome customer calls

to ask.

Are the angle holes on the clamp 'combined', meaning that once both sides are sharpened you arrive @, say a 20 degrees, or are they measured, as they seem, 20 degrees each side, resulting at an extreme 40 degree cutting angle / bevel???

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